19 Monday, 6.6.,
Schässburg
(Sighisoara), 112 km
There is a nice breakfast and I start into a dull morning on the Cycle
Route Nr. 2 leading through lonesome forest areas. At first there is
another pass Sicas, 1000 m.
At the summit there is something like a
quarry. From this point we will have a stretch of 40 km unpaved road.
There is one pothole aside the next, gradually filled with water for we
have a pretty rain meanwhile. It would be much work to investigate the
depth of each pothole before you bump into them. At one place some
lumbermen just pull a mighty tree trunk just across the road. After
some time I can transcend the trunk but strike my shinbone against it.
At the next rest I detect some blood but it is no serious problem.
The only way to pass this road is to stay on one side on the sod. On
the other hand this route is traffic free - you will know why. And it
leads mostly downhill, what a joy it would be to run down here with
fine weather and on a paved road. But today this is no pleasure. At
last we pass a lake and thereafter the road gets slightly better. In a
village I see a strange long haired creature. A sheep, a goat or dog?
And where is the front and the backside? Seems to be a dog and the
front side is at it's walk direction. Unfortunately the camera rests in
the depth of the panniers.
I now reach a town with three tongue breaking names: Odoheiu Secuiesc
or Szekelyudvarhely or Oderhellen. The first is the
Romanian name. The second the Hungarian because many Hungarians have
settled here as well. The third is the German name and we know that
about 700 years there was a German culture at Transylvania or
Siebenbürgen. Since the end of the socialism 15 years ago this
traditional era was abandoned by the migration towards the golden
western paradise. What a pity, it is a wonderful country. And I stand
around like a drowned rat this day.
We now ride along the swollen river Tarnava
Mare. I have a rest on a bridge, but after two heavy trucks have
passed it at the same time I better leave this trembling construction.
After a boring last stretch and an enjoyable comfortable section on the
E60 we reach the town of Schässburg or Sighisoara,
world heritage of the Unesco and one of the main destinations of my
tour. The first photo is difficult to produce with the roaring traffic
in the foreground.
Schaessburg |
The main street in the city is not so busy and got its name from Hermann Oberth, a space pioneer who
went to school at this town. May be this is the reason for the later
progrss of space research? I look for a proper hotel. At first a local
talks to me and seems to offer an accommodation. But there is no chance
to understand each other. And enventually I face the Hotel Claudiu,
check in for two nights and find the room of my dreams. A fast photo
before all the stuff out of the panniers will spoil the nice impression.
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Hotel Claudiu |
Kommunizierende Dachrinnen |
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Ein Zimmer, wo alles stimmt... |
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Everything is perfect from the minibar to the toothbrush tumbler. Out
of the window there is a nice view, not to the town panorama but to
some backyards and roofs with adventurous communicating gutter
constructions.
A short walk around the Stundturm
(Clock Tower),
the town's landmark and the dinner - another pizza - after this hardest
day of the tour.
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20 Tuesday, 7.6., Schässburg
We have a breakfast buffet and the lady of the reception comes down to
the restaurant to check any behaviour of the hungry guest. Later I
enter an Internet shop - it is still raining and so I can delete my
spam mails and send some mails to family, friends and some (former)
collegues.
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Finally the weather gets better and we start for the obligatory
inspection. Behind the Stundturm there is the
Dracula building (Casa Vlad Dracula),
but this is not my field of interest. Some distance
ahead there is the "Schülergang" (Pupils Step), this is a roofed
stairway up to the German Bergschule. Today those stairs are closed
because someone produces a television exposure of a historic theater.
The
other way leads across the cemetery "Bergfriedhof" which shall be one
of the most scenic of Transylvania. And in fact the deceased
(verstorben) people, all German names, enjoy a nice outlook from below
- sorry. The surviving family members meanwhile will have wandered to
their ancient home from 700 years ago.
The next attraction is the Bergkirche
and a small entry fee is to be
paid. Photos not allowed, so I wonder afterwards how the
Altar of this
church has slipped into the camera. Moreover the visitor gets an
information paper, but this must be returned and I have no copy of it.
Finally we enter the Stundturm - a must in this town. There you get a
"Foreigner's Ticket" and then you are allowed to visit all museum-like
rooms of this building. One chamber is dedicated to the H. Oberth
mentioned above. But remember: the early attempt of skyrocket
development was not
space research during WW II (Peenemünde et al.).
At another room we find a nice
model of the midiaeval town. It was a
Citadel surrounded by walls with some fortification towers. And this
ensemble kept unspoiled until today. Inside the tower we then pass the
clock
construction and the wooden figures of the clock. Those have hollow
backsides, don't ask me why.
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The view from the tower down to the roofs of the town is spectacular.
Outlook from the Clock Tower |
At last - on the ground again - a view into
the torture chamber with technical sketches of all the necessary
instruments. You may be astonished that the artists of those times have
created sensational and timeless works of art and on the other hand
were so cruel to agonize other human beeings.
Alive again we have an omelett with cheese and then we plan for the
next day.
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