Usedom
at September 2003
6.9.-20.9.2003
Is there anywhere a place on
earth where we can
relax, do nothing and take a dog with us? And have a swim in the sea
and consume fish as much as we want? Of course there is one and we know
it well. At first some more members of our family wanted to come with
us, but finally we are three: Heidi, Otto and I.
At first let us introduce Otto:
"My name is Otto and I am a Beagle.
Beagles tend to be difficult to be educated so I will try to behave as
well. In spite of that I like to have holidays either. Surely I will
meet lots of other dogs. I like them if they are female but at male
dogs I mostly get excited. At our destination there is a male dog, a
mixture from Chow-Chow and Spitz. His name is Paul. Moreover he is
black. So I see black as well."
So we three sit in our car on Saturday morning and start at 8.30
am, two bicycles on the roof and Otto behind the back seat. We reach
Berlin without problems and then go north with many construction sites
at the Autobahn. As it is absolutely impossible to stop with the car
Otto undertakes an expedition towards the driver and I hardly can avoid
that he keeps the lordship of the steering-wheel. At last I feel a hot
breath behind my neck until we can stop at the next rest place. It
would be better to install a solid grid at the backseat similar to
those of the vehicles of prisons.
After we got lost on side roads for a while and mastered a traffic jam
at the
uncompleted bridge in Anklam we reach the island Usedom as usual at the
village Usedom and traditionally stop at this place for a walk. The
attractions of this village are a big brickstone church, a city gate
(Anklamer Tor), the market place and the narrow lanes and houses,
finally the
harbour. It is to be read that they have big plans to build up a
"Marina". This is a support center for sailors with restaurant, shops,
toilettes and lavatories.
So we enjoy the (still) scenic atmosphere and then let us pull back to
the car by Otto. Now it is only a short distance to Stubbenfelde and
Koelpinsee where we leave the main road at the campground which is
alive again. We have made the 500 km in about 6 hours. At the
Teufelsberg we get out of the car and Otto can use the next birch tree
to lift up his leg.
There is a saga about the Teufelsberg:
A clubfooted shoemaker once was
federated with the devil and lived near the beach. At night he strolled
around to meet his companions. Nobody knew what they did there, only
some noise was to be heard. At one night there were strange flashes and
loud thunderbolts. Since then the shoemaker and all his belongings have
disappeared. Only the Teufelsberg and the Teufelskuhle are
reminiscences
of these activities.
May be there were similar phenomenons in the skies some time ago - but
we think this was at Peenemünde...
Now we must ring the bell to meet Anke who is somewhat sleepy because
her work starts at 4 am in the night at the campground of
Ückeritz. So we all stand on a good cup of coffee. Achim soon
comes back from some soccer activities. So after seven years we are
happy to meet again and convince each other that he just look like at
that time. Meanwhile Otto sits in the garden until we hear noisy fight
sounds. The dog Paul has detected the stranger in his garden and now
things must be rearranged. All the other dogs in the neighbourhood seem
to applaude by barking so we must interrupt this festival as fast as we
can. Let us tell you in advance: we will keep a security
distance
of at least 20 m between the dogs in the future.
We then settle in our apartment with refrigerator, cooking facilities,
toilet and showers - all built in during the last 7 years. So we feel
quite comfortable. But then we must go out immediately and look for the
beach. As a protection for the shores they have splashed some dunes and
planted certain grass on them. The once somewhat breezy house looks
solid again.
In the village of Kölpinsee one can see that money has come over
it. There are a lot of new houses, restaurants and shops. The most
accommodations are still booked. The old baker's shop still exists
(that is for tomorrow). We have our dinner in the Stranddistel and I
start with Matjes, let us see what fish-meals will await us. Heidi
starts with a bacon and potato ommelette.
At last I have a nice evening walk with Otto above the cliff, which is
about 40-50 m high. The highest cliff with 60 m is at the nearby
Streckelsberg. Otto doesn't suffer from acrophobia. But at the airy
stairs with transparent grids which lead just down to the dog's beach
he is not willing to overcome. So we will have to climb down the cliff
in
the future.
Sunday
Now let us introduce the early-morning duties: get the rolls from the
baker (later campground) and go out with Otto for his
morning-bush-activity. Thereafter we have breakfast. Today we go to the
beach because the weather is fine. As I have told we have to climb down
the cliff and the stairs are not convenient. It is strongly forbidden
to
climb at other areas of the cliff because they would be damaged
contrary to any coast protection. We look for a nice sink in the sand
where there is not so much wind, aside a trunk to fix the dog-lead.
This is necessary because Otto vituperates (stänkert) towards
every dog passing by.
So it is recommended to take a longer walk. This ends at the next
stairs at the Reha Klinik "Ostseeblick" near Ückeritz. Then there
are too many dogs ahead and we better go back. After one hour we are
back at our beach nest and are somewhat more even.tempered now. We
twinkle in the sun and find the beginning of our holidays just as we
have imagined to be. There is one disadvantage of this section of the
beach under the cliff: the sun disappears about 2 pm. behind the trees
above, and then it gets cool. We go back and eat some meatballs with
potatoes and vegetables. Otto goes asleep and we look for a still sunny
spot on the beach. This is to be found between the beach-baskets. For
the evening we buy a portion of Butterfish at the smokehouse.
Back in the garden Otto is allowed by the host to stroll around at the
land surrounded by a fence. "He cannot escape here" he says. One minute
later we hear a woman yelling at the street. "What's about this dog?"
she cries and we are running to the fence. And we just see the high
lifted white tail of Otto disappearing around the next corner.
Immediately I run behind him and soon catch him. May be he has crawled
out to the world of freedom under the garden-gate. The evening-walk is
cancelled today. In the TV there is a Pilcher film (as usual unclear
heritage, untrue lovers, broken engagements, at last misunderstandings
but two of the actors find their love to each other - sniff).
Monday
Since now we get the rolls from the shop at the campground because it
is nearer. The rolls should be ordered one day before. A woman in front
of me orders: "Two double rolls and two rolls with mixed corn". "OK,
two twins two corns" the grocer cuts short. As it is my turn I say "Two
twins two corns" and so feel like an old stager (alter Hase).
We
go back across the campground
where the nomads commute
between the shop, toilets and their mobile
home, carrying the toilet box in one hand and the bag with rolls in the
other.
We go to the beach as yesterday, have a walk and the lie lazy in the
sun. After some time a big black dog comes along and Otto is very
excited. And just a hard jerk and the dog-lead breaks. Now Otto runs as
fast as he can towards this black beast. I have never jumped
into
my bathing suit as rapid (this is usually not necessary hereabout). As
I arrive at the cockpit things have completely settled. Otto
immediately has recognized his limits and now stands by the sea. If he
could he surely inconspicously would
whistle a melody. As we go back the risen heads of the neighbours sink
down again - we soon will be well known around here - we think.
Fortunately we have a spare-lead and from now on have peace
except as the ice-car arrives, which seems to be a strange appearance
too. We leave with the sun and in the afternoon cower among the
beach-baskets. We get some sprats from the fish-shop and chewing we
observe a group of kids uniformed by equal bathing caps. A big man
gives
the Bay-Watcher with a megaphone. "Do not approach the groynes
(Buhnen)" he shouts. At last they all must come out because they have
blue lips or the jitters (Tatterich).
As we come home we find out that Otto prefers as his favourite place
the red sofa and we will have some work to remove the hair of his fur.
In the evening we continue our exploration along the cliff and succeed
to reach the campground Ückeritz. There we can go to the beach and
return at the seaside. At last - it is nearly dark - we climb up the
cliff and as we jump up the edge there stands like a phantom a huge
boarhound (Dogge). And what is Otto's turn? He looks aside and
inconspicously looks for some interesting smells in the bushes.
Tuesday
The weather stays to be fine. Before we start for the beach we have to
admire Achim's yielded catch of fish. There is a big eel, 99 cm long
they say. Moreover a very big Zander - bigger than ever. So the
obligatory hunter's photographs are shot. We order two smoked eels and
a flounder which will wait at the evening for us.
At the beach there is not so much new. We get known to a small dog
named Sally. This is so kind to anyone and barks and waggs its tail in
highest delight. The couple belonging to Sally live at the campground
and soon we involuntarily hear this and that about diseases and
surgeries. The man doesn't care to jump around without clothes in spite
of various cannulas and bags sticked on his skin. Let us be thankful
that we don't have such problems.
In the afternoon Otto and I start an attempt to explore the
mysterious path around the Kölpinsee. This begins at a meadow and
then is paved by rotten planks and a fence. We better return as we
observe two deers and
group of ladies from Saxony, which is to be heard by their slang. So it
was somehow exciting again for Otto and me.
In the evening we enjoy the eel and the flounder - with toast and
butter, so finally we cannot do anything more, esp. eating some more
eel.
Wednesday
Today we have rain. This would be fine for our garden at home but
during your holidays you think in a different way of it. As we come
back with the rolls Otto and I are completely soaked and have to be
dried with a towel. After breakfast we ride to Wolgast by car. We have
three things to do: a new necklace for Otto, money from the bankomat
and one-way-shavers. After some traffic jams we arrive at the bridge
over the Peene at 12.37 am. From a signpost is to be read that the
bridge will be closed at 12.40. Then the carriage way will be
pulled up to let some ships pass. Some people under umbrellas wait
already for this spectaculum. We just succeed to slip through before
the traffic light turns to be red.
The cost-free parking place is a t the Fischmarkt. The old town of
Anklam with its narrow streets is not so romantic if it is raining. We
ask for a pet shop and then buy a steel necklace for Otto to ensure,
that at future bungee-attempts no accident occurs. The old necklace
would soon break - we think.
The bankomat does not work - the Server is down. We must ask for a
difficult route to another bank office. In the afternoon we go to the
Achterwasser once again and take some photos of the pedal boats
disguised as plastic swans. In the evening the sun shines for a while
and we even observe a sunset at the Kölpinsee.
Thursday
Some rain yet so will go to the Polenmarkt at Swinemünde resp
Swinoujscie. Now we cannot find the identity card of Heidi. Perhaps we
can pass the border with a provisional permit? As usual there is a
traffic jam until we reach the parkingsite at the border. Then we enter
the passport control. "My wife has no identity card with her" I say
anxiously. The answer is short and lapidary: "Then you cannot pass".
"So you cannot pass" I say to Heidi. In consequence of this fact she
resigns and enters the imbiss restaurant nearby, toilets 50 cents. I
myself cross the border to get some cigarettes. And now all people look
at the other side of the street - so do I. There is just a couple
clothed in hunter's costume and with the beard of the chamois at their
hats coming back from Poland. The man carries a bulky bag on his
shoulder and something black looks out of the bag. Did they shot any
game or something like that? Really, it is the head of a tusker
(Keiler) - but, be careful, it is made of plastic and it's destination
may be the front garden of those people. So everyone around has his fun.
The Polish market is not far from the border. I have a quick look to
the products like textiles, sport suits, jackets, shoes, CDs or goods
and drinks. At the side of the street someone just buys the complete
amount of marone mushrooms. This could have been a deal for me but I am
too late. 20 minutes later I am back with the cigarettes where Heidi
with horror stares to the chicken meal opposite of her table in the
imbiss restaurant. We soon are out of this etablissement and ride back
to Ahlbeck. Here they have built and rebuilt lots of elegant estates.
We look for some typical names of hotels, pensions or restaurants and
find some which would be difficult to find out with a constricted
phantasy: Sea-Terrace, Hotel Baltic Sea, Hotel starfish (Seestern),
Sea-View, Sea-Castle, Villa Aquamarina. The best of all is : "House by
the Sea".
Back home we have no beach weather today. So we all make the expedition
around the Kölpinsee on the
planked path. We succeed to come through without broken ankles or feet.
As we return Anke has given a surprise to us. She comes along with
Bärbel who has come for a visit from Berlin. "We won't see us
otherwise" she says. So at last we have to go shopping to ensure a
festive evening. And we have it and are so happy to meet again after
those years.
Friday
After we had breakfast all together we start for a cycle tour to
Heringsdorf. You should know, that the long distance cycle path
"Ostsee" is just at the front door. Let us estimate that now past the
main season there are about 100 cyclists per hour which would be about
1000 cyclists the day. Many of those are one-day-tourers but here are
many with baggage as well, others stay over night at the campground.
If you ride towards Ückeritz you soon will be astonished to find a
18% uphill section here. "Cyclists dismount" is to be read and the most
of them do so, some even the way downhill. But it is a challenge to
climb up there riding in the saddle and to run down without use of the
brakes. The last matter is only possible if there are no other
passers-by around.
So there are some ups and downs until we reach Heringsdorf. We ride
along the promenade with some "lakes" due to the rain last night. It is
recommended to be on good terms with the other promenaders to avoid to
educate them to cycle-haters. We end at the Seebrücke (pier)
Heringsdorf which is said to be the longest of the European continent
(so you can argue that there is a longer one in Great Britain). During
the next days there will be the Russian sailing ship MIR (so this is
not only a space station). You can purchase a round trip then and even
climb up to the riggings (Takelage). "Stilettoes are not appropiate" is
to be read so this is a valuable information for the visitors.
Some time later we meet the couple with the dog Sally. Soon we find out
that they live 30 km from our home. "The world is small" is the usual
saying. We then ride back and Heidi detects that the slopes are not so
steep as before. In the afternoon we have a walk to the Streckelsberg.
Later someone told us that there should be the boletus mushroom
(Steinpilz). But just now we do not know anything about this fact so do
not suffer under the "mushroom-view". In the evening we meet
Bärbel who has seen "thousands of champignons" at the
Achterwasser. Bärbel will leave tomorrow and we hope to see her
before.
Saturday
We get up at 8 am but the bird has flown away already. We find a love
letter at the wardrobe: she was awake at 6.30 am - best wishes.
Does anyone assume wher we will go today? Yes, you are right: we go to
the Achterwasser to look for the thousands of champignons. The first
attempt ends at a dirt track under the cliff of the Höft - the
final end of the headland. There is a nice view but no mushroom at all.
We go back and try our luck at the higher meadows. And here we are
right, soon the basket is full with puff-balls( Bovist), blushers
(Perlpilz) and other white mushrooms with scaly (schuppig) heads which
look like champignons but do not smell like them. Meanwhile several
walkers have assembled at the fence and watch out what we are doing
there. Back home we consult some locals from the neighbourhood. They
are somewhat unsecure concerning the champignons and Anke is
sceptically too though she knows all mushrooms of the region. So we
better put those champignons away and content ourself with the
puff-balls (you can eat the very young, the older will blow dust on
you) and blushers for the supper.
We then ride to Ückeritz, there is a "Potatoe Festival" today.
There are various hot-dog stalls and booths with other stuff, a music
band of country & western style and many people
clapping
hands and swinging (schunkeln). It is difficult to detect any potatoe.
But finally we see some guys as they sit at a fire with long sticks and
a potatoe above the glow. Though the most visitors look very happy we
soon find our way back and once again we can fly down the 18% slope.
Achim has come back from another fishing tour. After the mass of fish
is handled there is much work to untangle the fishing lines. These are
rolled out from the boat and one day later they are hauled in again.
This time they had another good catch and the camera is in action. We
order a Zander for our next meal, and then have a coffee sitting very
comfortable altogether. We would like to help with the entanglement but
this is a difficult work and for experts only. It would be fatal if the
lines get tangled up on sea.
Sunday
It is dull this morning but the weather will be better. What's about a
tour with the car, Mellenthien and Lieper Winkel perhaps? Otto can come
with us. At Pudagla there is a wooden windmill, in German
Bockwindmühle. At Neppermin is a golf course at the Balmer See
which is a bay of the Achterwasser. More interesting for us is the
moated castle at Mellenthin. We leave the car and have a look in the
inner courtyard resp. let us drag there by Otto. The castle is not open
because the owners live in it. At a signpost one can read, that there
are no financial supports for restauration activities because there are
so many objects which need a sudden restauration more urgently. In
front of the courrtyard we find two tables where one can buy
agricultural products. We buy a package of bacon, a sausage and a glas
wit honey from the buckwheat (Buchweizen) - something special.
Once a woman asks "Is that a Beagle?" "Yes we think so, difficult to
educate" we say and in confirmation Otto jerks in all directions of the
windrose. He has to absolve his morning business yet and so we retire
to external grassland until the business is done. Soon we have
surrounded the estate and at last find a so called "Streitberg". It is
to be read that former defense-fighters used to retreat on a hill with
the advantage to fight against the opponents from above. It is not said
what they did when the conquerors ignored them on their hill and
preferred to maraud their estates.
We bring Otto back to the car and have a view to the restaurated farm
building and hotel. Then into the church, where we get a flyer "Welcome
to the churches of Usedom". So we can read about all we ought to know
like cross vaults and frescoes. Outside the woman, known from before,
asks "And where is your cart horse?" But it was not his turn to enter
the church.
The next village is Morgenitz. There is nice bell tower but the church
from 1318 is closed. But all around there are Slavic mill stones, an
unique collection. Our next stop is the harbour of Rankwitz at the
Peene. There you can meet all who are on tour today. This is caused by
the restaurant. But the region is not so scenic for they have paved
paths and lawn surfaces. As the next bus comes around the corner we
escape from here.
The last destination is the village Liepe which gave it's name to this
headland called "Lieper Winkel". They say that this is one of the most
beautiful regions of the island. If you go by car this is not so
obvious. At Liepe there is the oldest church (1216) of Usedom. There
are some frescoes inside but our flyer says that they are from the 18
th century. Our last approach towards the Achterwasser and the fisher's
village Warthe ends without success at a construction site.
In the evening we have our Zander with potatoes and horseradish
(Meerrettich). Thereafter we need some motion and use our bicycles for
a short trip. At the village Kölpinsee a woman cries to her
children as we approach: "Be careful there comes a car". And then "I
could bang at your ears all over the day". And if you look at the bitch
you would not wish to be one of her children.
Monday
Beachtime again, today our place is occupied by another lady. Because
there a kilometers of beach available it is no problem to find another
spot. We do our walk until the signpost "No dog's beach" and then we
return. Once we see a black dog at the sea line without someone
attending him. Later we learn, that this was our friend Paul on one of
his bigger excursions. He will return hours later and as usual tell to
nobody where he has been all the time.
Achim comes back from the sea for another time and this time we order a
Hornfish because this new to us. In the evening we visit an information
presentation in the restaurant of the campground. Impressions of the
island by Laptop and Beamer. Many attractions are known to us
meanwhile. There are certain contrasts between the good old
"Kaiserzeit" about 1910 and modern activities (Kempinski's Suite
Hotel). Before and after the socialism era they always looked for
attractive representation to get a good income on this island. And
since the "Wende" (1990) lots of matters have been settled. Many of the
old villas are restaurated and now look as pretty as during their
zenith period.
We then have our Hornfish whose characteristic are the green fishbones.
At the last walk at the beach we see lots of bats which come as near as
an arm's length. Don't be anxious of vampires!
Tuesday
There is another cycletour to be done and this is the other direction
via Koserow and Zempin to Zinnowitz. At first we have to climb some
steps, then along a forest path and finally on the dike. Here is the
smallest tongue of the island between the sea and a bay of the
Achterwasser. The road and the railway have just enough room, and so
the name of this place is "Lütten Ort" (small place). Moreover
here is the estate of the local artist and painter Niemeyer-Holstein.
Visitors shall leave their car at Koserow, is to be read.
We reach the promenade at Zinnowitz. There are beautiful villas,
Victorian or Art Nouveau (Jugendstil) or something like that. At the
end of the promenade is the Baltic Center which is not built in any
classic style. It has it's origins during the DDR-era and then they
used to build with ugly concrete panels (Platten). Now they have
prettyfied the building by glas-facades. Inside is bath and swim
paradise and the parking place is full. Then there is the
Seebrücke (pier) and the roundabout. Nearby is our favourite fish
shop, but this time there is no need to buy any fish. We only need some
tea from the supermarket aside.
On the way back we stop at the "Salzhütten" (salt huts) at
Koserow. We read: "...where they salted the fish in former times you
can eat it today..." We argue if this is still enjoyable. In Koserow we
look for the bankomat. As I have given my secret number ordered the
amount of money a glass panel comes up and nothing more happens.
Fortunately the cheque card comes out. A view to the church and then as
fast as we can back home and to the beach.
As usual in the afternoon we settle among the beach baskets. But today
the legal leaser of the basket where we sit comes up. "May be one could
hire a basket as well" they say and we look stupid. We think about it
and ask for the price. It is 5.- € the day and 4.50 € the half day. We
must think about it.
In the evening we are invited for an eel meal by Anke and Achim. This
is "eel in green" as they say and potatoes. We are nearly ashamed as
they always say "Take some more" and we cannot resist to do so. In
addition we have a delicious red vine and about 7 pm a beautiful sunset
at the Kölpinsee. Achim tells us about their ice hockey
activities. Their name is "The Kölpinsee Bulls" and they are very
prod about various reports in the newspapers. There are about 8 players
from Achim's relationship, he and his sons are 4 of them. They even won
this or that game or have faught against a famous team from Rostock or
so. But then they did not win...
But we have won a wonderful day of our holidays. And the day after
tomorrow we shall meet again for another fish-bacchanal. We will tell
about it...
Wednesday
We have thought about the beach basket. Today we will purchase one of
those. This is Heidi's part and as cute as she is she gets a basket for
two days for 6.- €. Of course there were some contacts to the
neighbours who had their fingers in the pie.
In spite of all I just grease the chain of my bike because I will go
out once again to "get cigarettes". While Heidi toddles to the beach I
climb up the 18% hill and other slopes. After one hour I am at the
border. I ride to the harbour of Svinemünde but there is not so
much too be seen. A photo of a house with 12 balconies. Back at the
border a panoramaphoto - but I don't know if this is allowed here. But
nobody intervenes, and moreover I could have smuggled a rucksack full
of cigarettes - but we better do not risk it.
The way back shall lead on side roads to unknown villages and regions.
So I go left at Ahlbeck and soon reach the Wolgastsee amidst of
forests. A 180º panorama composed from 8 photos. Then through
woods and fields to Garz. There are cycle or hike paths and good
signposts. At Garz one can continue to Kamminke but this is a dead end.
Or you have a look at the Golm (61 m), the highest hill of the island.
There is an ancient rest of a fortification wall and a war memorial -
not as ancient.
But I head towards Zirchow with another interesting church. On the bike
path there is an undercrossing of a former railway. Moreover there
exist relicts of the rail bridge in the Haff near Karnin and this is a
cultural heritage meanwhile. The church (St. Jakobus) of Zirchow is
closed and surrounded by trees - so difficult to take a
picture.
We continue on small roads to Benz. This time the church is open and
there is a fine cassette ceiling to be seen. From here the sandy path
is somewhat more strenuous but traffic free through the woods to Sellin
at the eastern shore of the Schmollensee. From there we reach the main
road and our good old campground and after 70 km from 9.30 am to 2.30
pm we are back home again.
Now the beach basket is very enjoyable. Once Achim and his brother come
along with their fire-red fisherboat and the names KÖL 2 and La
Paloma. We must help them to dock at the beach and this is: Heidi poses
for a photo and I have to hide the anchor in the shoal (seicht) water.
Other beach guests come along to take photos. Of course you can admire
the boat of Achim on postcards at the souvernir shops.
Thursday
We have to go to Koserow to make a new attempt to get money. And
another view to the church. And this time "the world is small" for we
meet the couple S. from our village at home (Recently I saw some people
embracing each other at the campground. They were from Bielefeld and
had to travel to this island to meet by accident). Concerning the
couple S. of our village it is to be said that it is more likely to
meet them at any church. In consequence they have organized the key and
we can go inside. It is to be read what is to be seen: winged altar,
Vineta cross and so on. The model of a vessel hangs from the ceiling.
The couple S. resides at a pension near the promenade of Ahlbeck. Their
small dog once was ill and had a obstruction of the bowels
(Darmverschluss). We did not have such trouble with Otto.
We ride back on the bumpy dam along the Achterwasser to Loddin. Later
we will tell you about the evening, but now we enter the supermarket to
get some vine for today. The rest of the day we spend at the beach. We
succeed to lure Otto into the water as we throw some sticks. But
finally he is happy to have solid sand under his paws - and so is
Heidi. Now and then I swim out to the end of the groynes (Buhnen). The
water is 18º warm or cold - this is relative. And on the groynes
there sometimes sit the cormorants - and in the case they had just
dived for fish they open their wings wide to get dry. In the afternoon
we go to our beach basket again. And if you ask what Otto does when he
stays at home I can tell you, that the fine red sofa is the best thing
on earth. Mostly he is unwilling to be disturbed when we come back. But
a grip to the dog-lead makes things clear again.
In the afternoon we have met another Beagle and a couple dragged
behind. A short exchange of experiences. Their beagle is eight years
old and all but got wise. Special interests: escape-excursions, drag
with the lead, disturbing other dogs. Sounds all well known to us.
And now what was to tell about the evening? Of course: the
fish-bacchanal as the farewell meal on the terrace with fine weather
and the sunset. Befor anyone fingers at the arranged dinner I must get
the camera and take a photo like for a cookery book. As there are:
fried eel, zander, flounder, perch. And from now on you will not hear
so much of us. Only "take some more" - some times. So we can affirm:
there arnot only experienced fishing activities but moreover excellent
culinary arts by the fisher's wife.
So let us better go out tonight. At the path along the lake we meet a
lively group of older ladies. They sing a jaunty song and I do not
trust to my ears: the song of the Rennsteig (this is a mountain path at
Thüringen). So let us say at last: "the world is small".
Friday
The last day. May be someone has read all the stuff until now? But he
will understand that we are somewhat sad to leave. Heidi even says
"This was our best holiday" but I know that this statement is usual at
the end of any fine holiday. The last "two twins, two corns" rolls.
After breakfast Achim continues to entangle his strings and once again
we discuss how this work could be done more effective. But with "they
all do it the same way" the discussion ends and we cannot dare to act
up as an expert. And it is so comfortable to sit together with a cup fo
coffee and crackers, the smoking oven in the background - like they did
at former times. And the pigeons curr (gurren) There are about 70 of
them attended by the boys. They take part in fly competitions and even
have been in Braunschweig already. The pigeons even found their way
back to Usedom, and may be we do as well - but unfortunately we cannot
fly.
We have a final day at the beach and can say that we had much luck with
the weather in the middle of September. At last we have to pack the
baggage and to clean the apartment inclusive the fine red sofa. How man
hairs does a dog have? May be millions!
The last meal at the Hotel Ostsee. And today no fish but beefsteak and
cutlet. Then a gentleman comes along with a big paperbag. What's in
there - yes: lots of boletus mushrooms. "You may have a glance for a
moment, but not more" he says. "Where did you find them?" - the most
unpopular question to successful mushroom seekers. So a secret smile is
the answer. But we found it out anyway and will not whisper about it -
be sure.
The last walk with Otto in the evening. Then we hear "Why is a Beagle
named Beagle? Because he bends (biegt) his tail all the time" (This is
a German wordplay and not to translate). The words come from an older
couple from Eberswalde. And at once we have a nice conversation. They
have a private flock of sheep at home. Now after the rain and growing
grass they can dare to make their first holidays this year. We go back
together and finally part while Otto lifts his leg and we human beings
shake hands.
On Saturday we ride home again. On the last stretch to the west we see
about 10 sunsets and as many sunrises at the hills behind Helmstedt.
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