Chapter 1  Album1
Kapitel 2 Album2
Panoramas

Saturday

We get up at 8 am but the bird has flown away already. We find a love letter at the wardrobe: she was awake at 6.30 am - best wishes.

Does anyone assume wher we will go today? Yes, you are right: we go to the Achterwasser to look for the thousands of champignons. The first attempt ends at a dirt track under the cliff of the Höft - the final end of the headland. There is a nice view but no mushroom at all. We go back and try our luck at the higher meadows. And here we are right, soon the basket is full with puff-balls( Bovist), blushers (Perlpilz) and other white mushrooms with scaly (schuppig) heads which look like champignons but do not smell like them.

Panorama am Achterwasser

Meanwhile several walkers have assembled at the fence and watch out what we are doing there. Back home we consult some locals from the neighbourhood. They are somewhat unsecure concerning the champignons and Anke is sceptically too though she knows all mushrooms of the region. So we better put those champignons away and content ourself with the puff-balls (you can eat the very young, the older will blow dust on you) and blushers for the supper.

We then ride to Ückeritz, there is a "Potatoe Festival" today. There are various hot-dog stalls and booths with other stuff, a music band  of country & western style and many people clapping hands and swinging (schunkeln). It is difficult to detect any potatoe. But finally we see some guys as they sit at a fire with long sticks and a potatoe above the glow. Though the most visitors look very happy we soon find our way back and once again we can fly down the 18% slope. Achim has come back from another fishing tour. After the mass of fish is handled there is much work to untangle the fishing lines. These are rolled out from the boat and one day later they are hauled in again. This time they had another good catch and the camera is in action. We order a Zander for our next meal, and then have a coffee sitting very comfortable altogether. We would like to help with the entanglement but this is a difficult work and for experts only. It would be fatal if the lines get tangled up on sea.

Wasserschloss Mellenthin

Alte Gerätschaft

Kirche in Mellenthin

Slawische Mahlsteine in Morgenitz

We bring Otto back to the car and have a view to the restaurated farm building and hotel. Then into the church, where we get a flyer "Welcome to the churches of Usedom". So we can read about all we ought to know like cross vaults and frescoes. Outside the woman, known from before, asks "And where is your cart horse?" But it was not his turn to enter the church.

Gutshof Mellenthien (renoviert)

Kirche in Liepe (nicht renoviert)

The next village is Morgenitz. There is nice bell tower but the church from 1318 is closed. But all around there are Slavic mill stones, an unique collection. Our next stop is the harbour of Rankwitz at the Peene. There you can meet all who are on tour today. This is caused by the restaurant. But the region is not so scenic for they have paved paths and lawn surfaces. As the next bus comes around the corner we escape from here.

The last destination is the village Liepe which gave it's name to this headland called "Lieper Winkel". They say that this is one of the most beautiful regions of the island. If you go by car this is not so obvious. At Liepe there is the oldest church (1216) of Usedom. There are some frescoes inside but our flyer says that they are from the 18 th century. Our last approach towards the Achterwasser and the fisher's village Warthe ends without success at a construction site.

In the evening we have our Zander with potatoes and horseradish (Meerrettich). Thereafter we need some motion and use our bicycles for a short trip. At the village Kölpinsee a woman cries to her children as we approach: "Be careful there comes a car". And then "I could bang at your ears all over the day". And if you look at the bitch you would not wish to be one of her children.

Monday

Beachtime again, today our place is occupied by another lady. Because there a kilometers of beach available it is no problem to find another spot. We do our walk until the signpost "No dog's beach" and then we return. Once we see a black dog at the sea line without someone attending him. Later we learn, that this was our friend Paul on one of his bigger excursions. He will return hours later and as usual tell to nobody where he has been all the time.

Achim comes back from the sea for another time and this time we order a Hornfish because this new to us. In the evening we visit an information presentation in the restaurant of the campground. Impressions of the island by Laptop and Beamer. Many attractions are known to us meanwhile. There are certain contrasts between the good old "Kaiserzeit" about 1910 and modern activities (Kempinski's Suite Hotel). Before and after the socialism era they always looked for attractive representation to get a good income on this island. And since the "Wende" (1990) lots of matters have been settled. Many of the old villas are restaurated and now look as pretty as during their zenith period.

We then have our Hornfish whose characteristic are the green fishbones. At the last walk at the beach we see lots of bats which come as near as an arm's length. Don't be anxious of vampires!

Tuesday

There is another cycletour to be done and this is the other direction via Koserow and Zempin to Zinnowitz. At first we have to climb some steps, then along a forest path and finally on the dike. Here is the smallest tongue of the island between the sea and a bay of the Achterwasser. The road and the railway have just enough room, and so the name of this place is "Lütten Ort" (small place). Moreover here is the estate of the local artist and painter Niemeyer-Holstein. Visitors shall leave their car at Koserow, is to be read.

We reach the promenade at Zinnowitz. There are beautiful villas, Victorian or Art Nouveau (Jugendstil) or something like that. At the end of the promenade is the Baltic Center which is not built in any classic style. It has it's origins during the DDR-era and then they used to build with ugly concrete panels (Platten). Now they have prettyfied the building by glas-facades. Inside is bath and swim paradise and the parking place is full. Then there is the Seebrücke (pier) and the roundabout. Nearby is our favourite fish shop, but this time there is no need to buy any fish. We only need some tea from the supermarket aside.

On the way back we stop at the "Salzhütten" (salt huts) at Koserow. We read: "...where they salted the fish in former times you can eat it today..." We argue if this is still enjoyable. In Koserow we look for the bankomat. As I have given my secret number ordered the amount of money a glass panel comes up and nothing more happens. Fortunately the cheque card comes out. A view to the church and then as fast as we can back home and to the beach.

Kirche in Koserow

As usual in the afternoon we settle among the beach baskets. But today the legal leaser of the basket where we sit comes up. "May be one could hire a basket as well" they say and we look stupid. We think about it and ask for the price. It is 5.- € the day and 4.50 € the half day. We must think about it.

La Paloma

La Paloma

In the evening we are invited for an eel meal by Anke and Achim. This is "eel in green" as they say and potatoes. We are nearly ashamed as they always say "Take some more" and we cannot resist to do so. In addition we have a delicious red vine and about 7 pm a beautiful sunset at the Kölpinsee. Achim tells us about their ice hockey activities. Their name is "The Kölpinsee Bulls" and they are very prod about various reports in the newspapers. There are about 8 players from Achim's relationship, he and his sons are 4 of them. They even won this or that game or have faught against a famous team from Rostock or so. But then they did not win...

But we have won a wonderful day of our holidays. And the day after tomorrow we shall meet again for another fish-bacchanal. We will tell about it...

Swinemünde

In spite of all I just grease the chain of my bike because I will go out once again to "get cigarettes". While Heidi toddles to the beach I climb up the 18% hill and other slopes. After one hour I am at the border. I ride to the harbour of Svinemünde but there is not so much too be seen. A photo of a house with 12 balconies. Back at the border a panoramaphoto - but I don't know if this is allowed here. But nobody intervenes, and moreover I could have smuggled a rucksack full of cigarettes - but we better do not risk it.

Grenzübergang Swinemünde>

The way back shall lead on side roads to unknown villages and regions. So I go left at Ahlbeck and soon reach the Wolgastsee amidst of forests. A 180º panorama composed from 8 photos.

Panorama vom Wolgastsee>

Then through woods and fields to Garz. There are cycle or hike paths and good signposts. At Garz one can continue to Kamminke but this is a dead end. Or you have a look at the Golm (61 m), the highest hill of the island. There is an ancient rest of a fortification wall and a war memorial - not as ancient.

Bei Garz

Alte Eisenbahnlinie

Unterführung

But I head towards Zirchow with another interesting church. On the bike path there is an undercrossing of a former railway. Moreover there exist relicts of the rail bridge in the Haff near Karnin and this is a cultural heritage meanwhile. The church (St. Jakobus) of Zirchow is closed and surrounded by trees - so difficult to take a picture.

Kirche in Zirchow

Sellin am Schmollensee

We continue on small roads to Benz. This time the church is open and there is a fine cassette ceiling to be seen. From here the sandy path is somewhat more strenuous but traffic free through the woods to Sellin at the eastern shore of the Schmollensee. From there we reach the main road and our good old campground and after 70 km from 9.30 am to 2.30 pm we are back home again.

Kassettendecke in der Kirche von Benz

Now the beach basket is very enjoyable. Once Achim and his brother come along with their fire-red fisherboat and the names KÖL 2 and La Paloma. We must help them to dock at the beach and this is: Heidi poses for a photo and I have to hide the anchor in the shoal (seicht) water. Other beach guests come along to take photos. Of course you can admire the boat of Achim on postcards at the souvernir shops.

Am Strand

La Paloma

So ein Urlaub ist was schönes...

Thursday

We have to go to Koserow to make a new attempt to get money. And another view to the church. And this time "the world is small" for we meet the couple S. from our village at home (Recently I saw some people embracing each other at the campground. They were from Bielefeld and had to travel to this island to meet by accident). Concerning the couple S. of our village it is to be said that it is more likely to meet them at any church. In consequence they have organized the key and we can go inside. It is to be read what is to be seen: winged altar, Vineta cross and so on. The model of a vessel hangs from the ceiling. The couple S. resides at a pension near the promenade of Ahlbeck. Their small dog once was ill and had a obstruction of the bowels (Darmverschluss). We did not have such trouble with Otto.

We ride back on the bumpy dam along the Achterwasser to Loddin. Later we will tell you about the evening, but now we enter the supermarket to get some vine for today. The rest of the day we spend at the beach. We succeed to lure Otto into the water as we throw some sticks. But finally he is happy to have solid sand under his paws - and so is Heidi.

180° Küstenpanorama

Now and then I swim out to the end of the groynes (Buhnen). The water is 18º warm or cold - this is relative. And on the groynes there sometimes sit the cormorants - and in the case they had just dived for fish they open their wings wide to get dry. In the afternoon we go to our beach basket again. And if you ask what Otto does when he stays at home I can tell you, that the fine red sofa is the best thing on earth. Mostly he is unwilling to be disturbed when we come back. But a grip to the dog-lead makes things clear again.

In the afternoon we have met another Beagle and a couple dragged behind. A short exchange of experiences. Their beagle is eight years old and all but got wise. Special interests: escape-excursions, drag with the lead, disturbing other dogs. Sounds all well known to us.

Ganz wie aus dem...

...Kochbuch

And now what was to tell about the evening? Of course: the fish-bacchanal as the farewell meal on the terrace with fine weather and the sunset. Befor anyone fingers at the arranged dinner I must get the camera and take a photo like for a cookery book. As there are: fried eel, zander, flounder, perch. And from now on you will not hear so much of us. Only "take some more" - some times. So we can affirm: there arnot only experienced fishing activities but moreover excellent culinary arts by the fisher's wife.

So let us better go out tonight. At the path along the lake we meet a lively group of older ladies. They sing a jaunty song and I do not trust to my ears: the song of the Rennsteig (this is a mountain path at Thüringen). So let us say at last: "the world is small".

Friday

The last day. May be someone has read all the stuff until now? But he will understand that we are somewhat sad to leave. Heidi even says "This was our best holiday" but I know that this statement is usual at the end of any fine holiday. The last "two twins, two corns" rolls. After breakfast Achim continues to entangle his strings and once again we discuss how this work could be done more effective. But with "they all do it the same way" the discussion ends and we cannot dare to act up as an expert. And it is so comfortable to sit together with a cup fo coffee and crackers, the smoking oven in the background - like they did at former times. And the pigeons curr (gurren) There are about 70 of them attended by the boys. They take part in fly competitions and even have been in Braunschweig already. The pigeons even found their way back to Usedom, and may be we do as well - but unfortunately we cannot fly.

We have a final day at the beach and can say that we had much luck with the weather in the middle of September. At last we have to pack the baggage and to clean the apartment inclusive the fine red sofa. How man hairs does a dog have? May be millions!

The last meal at the Hotel Ostsee. And today no fish but beefsteak and cutlet. Then a gentleman comes along with a big paperbag. What's in there - yes: lots of boletus mushrooms. "You may have a glance for a moment, but not more" he says. "Where did you find them?" - the most unpopular question to successful mushroom seekers. So a secret smile is the answer. But we found it out anyway and will not whisper about it - be sure.

The last walk with Otto in the evening. Then we hear "Why is a Beagle named Beagle? Because he bends (biegt) his tail all the time" (This is a German wordplay and not to translate). The words come from an older couple from Eberswalde. And at once we have a nice conversation. They have a private flock of sheep at home. Now after the rain and growing grass they can dare to make their first holidays this year. We go back together and finally part while Otto lifts his leg and we human beings shake hands.

On Saturday we ride home again. On the last stretch to the west we see about 10 sunsets and as many sunrises at the hills behind Helmstedt.