Eupen Eupen Kirchenkreuz Eupen-Panorama |
1. Day: Th, 3.6. Aachen – Kronenburg, 85 km
My train gets off about 7 am, train change at Dortmund and
at 12.07 we arrive at Aachen. Just behind the railway station there is
the
road towards Eupen/Belgium. Aside the road there is a cycle path
leading slightly uphill. Then there is the border to Belgium. Since the
Schengen Agreement there are no more border controls at all. Just a few
booths selling fruits or vegetables or so.
At Eupen there is a busy traffic, I have a rest and some photo-shots.
"Do you like to occupy this place?" a woman asks me because I have
placed
my bike behind her car. "I run off at once" I say. The region of
Eupen-Malmedy has a changeful history. They were thrown between the
German and Belgium nationalty for several times. Now it seems they all
speak German, moreover in Colognian slang.
I resign to go to Malmedy, may be I reach my destination at the river
Kyll today. But now we must cross the "Hohes Venn" and this is easy
climbing for one hour. There are upland moors and vast nature
reservation areas. Today it is too hazy to have far sights. At the
tower of the Signal de Botrange
there is the summit at about 600 m
height. From now on we run downhill and finally find smaller roads back
to the German border at the Losheimer Graben. And I have the wind from
behind all the time and this will be the same for the next days.
Somewhere on the route Sawmill Kronenburg Wilhelm-Tell-Gasse |
So we soon reach the Lake of Kronenburg and the destination. But it is
surprising, that the town of Kronenburg is on the top of a hill.
"Medieval town center" is to be read, so I push my loaden bike up
there. The town center is a single street or two with nice old houses.
I cannot get a room at a private pension, they don't like
one-night-guests as they say. A "Zimmer-Frei"-woman declares: "The room
is to be made anyway" after she has fibbed that there is no free room
in her house. So I end at the Hotel Eifelhouse around the corner. I get
a room with an outlook over the valley but not so cheap. The bike is
locked at an old town gate named Wilhelm-Tell-Gasse. At the hotel there
is a young dog (Retriever-Labrador) named Anton. He tries to bite in my
pants while looking for a game partner. So I must say: "Please stop that
my dear, I only have these single pants".
In the evening I get aspic a la
maison with fried potatoes and salad. This is enough to refill
the tank for the bike. A final walk and I find a board with
informations about the Jakob's-Path.
Then there is a path up to the
ruins of the former fortification. There are only the remains of some
walls and the half of a tower. The rest of the evening I sit at the
open window enjoying the
outlook
and the baa of the sheep until it gets
dark.
2. Day: Fr, 4.6. Kronenburg - Trier, 115 km
Today we will ride the Kyllroute, length about 100 km. The river Kyll
is rather unknown, as well the bike route which was built in 1993. So
it is an insider's tip."At both sides of the route there are mills,
castles, churches, chateaus, museums and picturesque villages of the
Eifel" - so it is to be read. And a twisted railway winds its way
through the valley
(therefore some weeks later my norwegian friends
Turid and Terje
will come along here).
Kyll-Radweg im Regen Die erste Kuh ist noch aus Stroh Tunnel auch für Radfahrer |
Not so nice is the rain today. When I start I think "It gets brighter already" but this was an error because it keeps raining into the early afternoon. But as the wind comes from behind (north) this is not such a bad thing. There is often a slight downhill because we come from 500 m down to 130 m at Trier. The bad thing is: everything is grey and foggy clouds hang above the meadows and hills. So we have a brand new camera but no colours at all. Our main companions today are the grapevine snails. They have a moderate speed and so no collisions occur. We pass the mineral-water-town Gerolstein and castles like Bertradaburg or Ramstein and so on.
Regenbilder |
There are two passages through railway tunnels, where the cyclist finds
a seperated lighted track. This is absolutely extraordianary. In the
late afternoon we reach the river Moselle and near Trier industrial
areas. Finally we come into the pedestrian area of Trier along the
Moselle-bike-path. But I have forgotten to give a hint to a nice little
place before Trier named Pfalzel.
This is very scenic with half timbered houses, flowers, a cloister and
nice restaurants. May be one finds a nice accommodation there.
But meanwhile I stray around in Trier. There is a hotel with a Bett
& Bike sign but everything is closed. So I find the Hotel Aulmann at a central place.
And the Restaurant Peking is
around the corner - if you know me better you will await what happens.
I have a small talk with the chinese service maid to get a draught
beer. But she doesn't understand me, so let us have a Bitburger or so
from the bottle. But the meal is exquisite: pork sweet-and-sour and a
heap of rice. There is no granule left.
At the final walk we soon stumble across the Porta Nigra. Of course you
must perform a walk-through like the good old Romans did. We have the
Dome
and the place at the townhall, but then we have leisure time. In the
television I find a report about some crazy adventurers who had spent
years of their life and lots of money to break the sound barrier by
a rocket-like wheel-vehicle. I will not have such ambitions...
3. Day: Sa, 5.6 Trier - Sarreguimines, 135 km
At first we have a grey day again but later on it will be better. The
wind will not change and this is a fine thing. We will continue at the
river Saar and now need the bikeline-guide. I don't like to buy all the
brochures of a tour in advance for we then have a certain amount of
weight which is useless. In the morning the book shops are still
closed. So I start "blind". But the fine signs of the
Moselle-bike-trail and since Konz where the Saar comes in the
Saar-cycle-track avoid to get lost.
Saar-Radweg bei Konz Saarburg |
Mostly the track leads along the
river on traffic free tarmac surface. Around Kanzern you can choose
from a fork: one route is short and leads along a canal straight ahead.
The other branch leads around a slope of the river. This is the more
scenic of course.
We come to Saarburg, a nice
town. Let us enter the centrum to find a book-store there. There is one
and they can sell the bikeline-brochure, so I am complete now. The main
attraction of this town is a waterfall and some mill-wheels down at the
river. It will be difficult to stitch the four photos to a single one,
so until now look at the origins.
Furtheron we follow the green loops and slopes of the Saar. After the
town of
Mettlach we await the famous 180 deg. loop. High above of the turnpoint
of the loop
there is a restaurant with an outlook named Cloef - unreachable with the
bike. So I have taken a photo from
the Net, let us hope that no one will complain about this.
The valley now gets wide and the woods and slopes give way. At
Saarlouis I leave the bike trail to reach the center and a super
market. There is much trouble because they have a festival today and no
motorized traffic is allowed. But the cyclist has no problems. As I
leave the market I find a tick on my panniers. These are dangerous and
can transmit a certain desease (Borreliose). But this was the
only meeting with one of those beasts on the tour.
Industrielandschaft |
I am pretty fast today caused by the good wind. This is adequate
because the landscape turns to be more and more industrial.
Near the Völklinger Hütte (Saar Stahl) it nearly
gets aesthetic. I observe two pit winding towers, where they mine the
expensive and highly subsidised Saar-coals.
At a village named Zettin the canal path ends or the continuation sign was
stolen? After a short stretch on the road we reach the village
Wittring. I succeed to cross a provisional bridge and then crawl along
a muddy tunnel under the dam. Funny!
The path thereafter is bumpy but after some time it gets better. The
name of the canal is Canal Houlières
de la Sarre. At some place this canal turns inland into the wrong
direction. If you don't be careful - and so am I - you must come back
after some time, when you realize your mistake. So we reach Sarre-Union at noon. Fine if there were a restaurant
to enjoy any meal. But I cannot find something and run away from some
motor-cyclists in leather suits occupying the only cafe at the place.
Some time later we push up a steep hill. On the top
there is a forester's lodge or something like that named Maison Forestière de Bischtroff.
We arrive there somewhat sweaty. Thereafter we enjoy a slight downhill
which is worth the efforts from before. On the opposite side of the
valley there is a picturesque village named Wolfskirchen. This village is up
above at the slope and so it is to be seen from everywhere.
And what do you think - yes, you are right: there is another festival
here. So the tourist information bureau has open on Sunday. They phone
to the next hotel around the corner and this is Hotel-Restaurant Du Soleil Levant.
This is a Vietnamese one and the food is Asian and I don't bother...
Before I may have a look into the Chapelle
de Cordeliers, cost-free today as on every first sunday of the
month. There is a famous glass-window created by Marc Chagall. This is
prized as a monumental work of art named "La Paix". Somewhat like Adam and
Eve surrounded by red flowers with a blue background. At the museum
there is a gobelin of Chagall as well but this chapel was enough for me.
The hotel is behind the nearby church and I get a nice room. I then
cycle to the railway station to get a road map of the Vosges area. I
succeed and purchase a Michelin road map, so the further plannings can
go on. For dinner I get a spring roll and Porc Grillè and Riz
Nature. But tomorrow there will be no breakfast because they have their
rest day on monday. So I pay my bill and can start as early as I will
in the morning.
We then reach Saarbrücken.
This should have been the final point
for today. Sometimes I don't like places. This time this is caused by
another town-festival (Family's Celebration or so). Moreover there are
lots of crying soccer-fans carrying banners of their soccerclub 1. FC
Saarbrücken. Did they win? I ask a boy at the side of the street.
Saarbrücken has won 2:1 against Schweinfurt and now ascends to the
second German soccer league. This is not my theme.
I continue awaiting the next occasion for an accommodation. There is a
fine path along the river and soon we cross the border to France and
end at Sarreguimines. I ask a gentleman
to find a hotel and
end at the Hotel Aux Deux Etoiles with a
simple room and no breakfast. To pay in cash, they only accept French
credit cards. But this was the only place in our common Europe. The
monsieur demands me, not to stick the key of the door from inside of
the chamber. May be if there is a fire or so? But I soon check out,
that I can balance out of my window in the second floor down to the
street in the case of an accident. This is academic
gobbledegook. But on the
street under the room there is a busy traffic, so we will not have a
silent dawn hour.
I look for a pizzeria but cannot find any satisfiable. But the Restaurant Shanghai, guess that I cannot deny to stay
there. Then I am very disappointed about the meal and the mass (rice
costs extra) and still am hungry. I find out, that the other guests
order one meal after the other, so they surely will have enough. But
you must ask your wallet as well. I still have some yoghurts and a
spoon which jumped into my front bag at the breakfast-buffet last
morning.
During the night I must keep the windows shut because it is too noisy.
Remelfing
Sarreinsming
Sarreinsming
I must start with an empty stomache. I still have some chocolate. Today
we have Sunday and the shops are closed except fuel stations but those
are not to be found in the botany. But we have the best weather:
"Kaiserwetter" as we say in German. Now we detect picturesque scenes, a
mill-wheel or nice villages now and then.
The track leads along the canal of the Saar with ancient sluices
sometimes. The French cyclists hurry along in lycra dresses on high
tech bikes. Where do they go all the time? But they all say hello or
salut or bonjour or something like that.
Wittring (Tunnel left)
Sarralbe
At the next village I sit on a bench but immediately a guy comes up to
scounge a cigarette or so. I throw my chocolate into the front bag and
hurry on, up a mountain. And there is nice meadow with fruit-trees and
I find my place in the shadow of an apple-tree. The chocolate is rather
soft meanwhile.
Sarre-Union
Wolfskirchen
I arrive at the village Diedendorf and
get lost down a steep road. Though I had had the occasion to study the
map throughly during a former rest at the church. So back and up the
same way, thereafter we reach the village or town
Fénétrange. There are some old walls like a
town gate or
the inner courtyard of a chateau or something like that. For the rest
of the route today we choose the shorter fork across the Herrenwald. At the top there is a
beautiful view above Sarrebourg,
the end point of the Sarre-Bike-Path (the end for me - in the brochure
it is the start).
Sarrebourg Panorama
Chapelle des Cordeliers
La Paix von Chagall
Hotel Du Soleil Levant