Bicycle Tour Mecklenburg
28.6.-8.7.93

Sunday, 4.7.

The day of depart has come and we heartily say farewell to the Müllers, who not only have been extremely hospitable but moreover provided a respectable entertainment programme. We would like to return to Malchow one day, it is not far from our home.


Botany
"On the road again", and we turn left into the botany past the dam of the Malchow island. A fine tailwind makes us feel pleasant. At the left we see the water surface of the Fleesensee and we come to Göhren-Lebbin. Here the castle has turned to be the luxury Hotel Schloss Blücher. I enter the entrance hall, Heidi does not dare due to her cycle shorts.


Schloß Klink
At the reception I ask for some information brochures. An elder couple just scrolls some thousands of DM on to the counter, more than our complete tour will cost. On the other side there is an advertisement to have a weekend of your dreams inclusive a coachtrip and a champagne-brekfast for DM 390.-.

On some cobblestone roads we reach the Klink. There is another castle with a phantastic view high above the Müritz. But the buildings are unused and wait for better times. A biker couple with brand new bikes comes up and we have a chat. The woman says "This is the romance of spider webs". The path leads along the shore of the Müritz for a while but then it gets too impassable and we turn to a comfortable road towards Röbel. This is a nice town at an side branch of the Müritz. In the next village Ludorf there is an old church with an octagonal floor plan built of brickstone.


Church at Ludorf

Müritz
Between Zielow and Vipperow the path becomes adventurous again. In the midst of a swampland they have built a path of concrete panels and the mosquitoes attack us. Finally we have to circumvent a soggy meadow. Another couple does not realize this chance and ends amidst of the water pools. At Vietzen we do hard to find the correct path towards Mirow, but then master the last section for today. It was an easy ride due to the tailwind. At Mirow we find another castle with an island and on this island the Pension Schlossinsel. In former time this was a holiday camp, the buildings are not so romantic but we don't care and get a nice room with a view to the lake (lakes exist everywhere).

The city of Mirow is not so interesting, along the main street there are smaller houses in grey. The castle is restaurated and it will last some time until it will be completed. Besides of the church at the castle there is jacked up the skeleton of the new built top of the tower. You will see this from a greater distance usually. The lake is named Mirower and Kotzower See and is stretched to the north. We have not the time to wander as far as the countryside would invite to do.

Beneath the window of our room there is the terrace of the Cafe. For my face is still sunburnt I put off my spectacles - titanium frame, bifocal and super reflected - and deposit them at the window sill. I then use a after sun cream to do something good to my skin. And when I am ready I turn back from the mirror and cannot find my glasses, they have disappeared. And the window is closed though it was open before...

Eventually I recognize what had happened. The wind has closed the window and this has pushed my glasses out. So I must get my spare glasses and go outside to search. The Cafe terrace is rather occupied and soon the people look at this crazy guy who creeps around among the bushes. At last I find myself nearly standing on the lost spectacles. They are intact, so I immediately put them on my nose and pass the astonished cafe guests trying to act in a cool manner.

As we consume our dinner we observe a special guest who obviously looks for a stop-over of a busparty. This gentleman is also very cool and drinks one beer after the other at the expense of the restaurant's owner.

Monday 5.7.

At the next morning we have a chat with the owner. He comes from Thüringen and tells, that they will start to increase the reminiscent atmosphere of the house in respect to the surrounding buildings of the castle etc.

Today we ride at another jewel of landscape, the lakeland between Neustrelitz and Rheinsberg. There are lots of small lakes which seem to dream among the forests. They are nearly all combined together which offers many possibilities for canoeists. The roads are not so good, lonesome and sandy. Sometimes we have to push the bikes. Near Fleth at the Vilzsee there is an old saw mill. The paddle wheel is in the inner house and to be seen through the windows. I take a photo of the lake covered by waterlilies.


Lake with Waterlilies
At a sluice we observe a canoe which comes along. A woman opens and closes the water gates. Seems to be free of charge. At noon we reach Rheinsberg and there is the castle of the novel by Tucholsky not quite as famous as "Schloss Gripsholm". The castle is at work for restauration activities and a visit is not possible.


Schloß Rheinsberg
We continue to the north-east passing endless forests. At Neuglobsow we come to the Großer Stechlinsee. This again is famous by the novel "Der Stechlin" by Theodor Fontane. The lake is located at a lonesome place surrounded by the woods. I make an attempt to produce a panorama photo.


Der Stechlinsee
The last section leads to Gransee. There is a city wall and we await a scenic little town. We reach the town passing the Neuruppiner Tor. There is no tourist bureau, this was closed some time ago as someone says. At the main street there is the Hotel Lindenhof where we will try to get an accommodation. "Open past 6 am" is to be read at the entrance. We first look stupid but then success to get in contact with someone via the backyard. This hotel is brand new like many others in the former DDR. We get a nice room and thereafter can start to explore the little town.


In Gransee
It would be overstated to concede Gransee a historic or moreover medieval city. But it is a typical "Ackerbürgerstadt" (town for farmland workers) of this region. Remarkable is the Schinkel Platz, market place in former times. There is a monument in memory to a female regent Auguste  Wilhelmine or someone like that. The inscription of the homage ends with the statement: "Oh Jammer sie ist hin!" (Oh pain, she is dead!).

The background is: The popular Prussian Queen Luise Auguste Wilhelmine Amalie von Preußen died on the 19th July, 1810 near Neustrelitz. During the night of the 25th July the coffin was set up on this place at Gransee and so the famous architect Schinkel designed this monument here.

Tuesday, 6.7.

The last stage of our tour will lead from Gransee to Berlin. We pass hamlets with funny names like Kraatz-Buberow, Kleinmutz or Zehdenick. Then we get lost in the local forests. As we stick deep in any sandy path some men who are looking for mushrooms can help us to declare the route towards Krewelin. They had no luck with their mushrooms likewise so they say "Then we go for fishing". We then ride at the border to the big forest Schorfheide parallel to a canal. We reach Liebenwalde and enter a baker's shop.


Sachsenhausen
We find ourselves in another endless forest towards Oranienburg. No human being is to be seen and we start to feel anxious. But on this continent nothing is endless - past 15 km in the woods we see light again at Schmachtenhagen. Aside the road to Oranienburg there are signs for newly found common graves. We go for the memorial place Sachsenhausen, which was a Nazi concentration camp until the end of the war and liberated by the Russians. Some months ago some Neonazis have committed a fire attack to one of the barracks.

There were prominent persons set in solitary or under arrest without any light (Dunkelhaft) for months or even years. The cameras of the visitors click. We are meditative if the humanity will ever learn from cruelties in the past. We don't think so if we look for an opinion about present times.

At Oranienburg we are swallowed by the busy traffic of the large city. We soon give up to cycle any more as we get lost within a canal, an Autobahn and a training area for dogs. We head for the S-Bahn at the station Birkenwerder. At Berlin we have friends and are announced by phone. We purchase the tickets and then enter the next train. Eventually we detect, that we had to stamp the tickets at the station. So the rest of the ride is somewhat thrilling but it ends without a desaster.

As we meet our friends, the family of Werner M. the biketour is over. We have two additional days for Berlin, Heidi was not there since her school days.

Wednesday, 7.7.

Today we want to go to Berlin-Mitte, that is the center located at the other side of the wall during DDR-times. First we look at the famous shopping promenade Kudamm and wonder about the meanwhile notorious conquest of shopping areas by big concerns like H&M, C&A, Peek & Cloppenburg and others ending with Mc Donalds. The old fashioned Cafe Kranzler looks like a foreign matter therein.


Europacenter
I enter a photoshop for the express service of my films. Until they will have finished their work we stroll around the Gedächtniskirche, warehouse KaDeWe or the Europacenter. Suddenly someone shouts: "Be sure, they have come by bike" - and this is my collegue Rolf H. and his wife. They have visited Schwerin, Rostock, Berlin, Dresden but all by car.

We then get the photos except one film which would not work (I got these photos later by mail). Meanwhile the wheather is so ugly that we are glad that we had not to cycle today. We ride to "Unter den Linden". Beneath the lime trees there is rain and we enter a cafe. As we leave the cafe it continues to rain.

We pass the Brandenburger Tor, some years ago a historic act, meanwhile nothing spectacular. Now we flee from the rain into the Reichstag, finally we pay for the restauration activities of this building with our tax. There is a large exhibition about the history of Germany. The themes are (in German): Mittelalter, Preußen, Sturm- und Drang- und Kaiserzeit, Weimarer Republik, Nationalsozialismus and Weltkriege, Trümmerfrauen and Wirtschaftswunder, at last the Wiedervereinigung, which had happened at the balcony of this very building.

We then visit the Alexanderplatz. The wind blows around the corners. In front of a shoe-shop the rolling shoe racks start to sail away. The trademen at the streets have covered their stuff with canvas and will sell nothing.

We stumble into the next exhibition "Der Traum vom anderen Deutschland" at the Marienkirche. The theme of this exhibition is Nationalsozialismus and Holocaust. So we have absolved a good amount of cultural events, Sachsenhausen yesterday and the two exhibitions today. As if he would know about this fact a reporter with a microphone comes up and asks for our impressions. Here you can say it again, who has learnt anything if you look around in the world. We argue if we would to be heard in the radio one day.

Now we head for the cathedral. This has just reopened some days ago after a longish restauration. The organ is played. The echo shall cover several accords they say. But therefore the accustics are somewhat spongy. We hear the organ music like a steady roaring. Everything else is brand new and needs some dust and patina to look reminiscent again. But the sarcophargus arrangement of the first Prussian kings looks old. But we cannot say if there is something in them.


Berliner Dom
Around the corner there is the Museumsinsel. A tourist family rushes in front of us and as if hypnotised we follow them to find out where they are going to. So we find ourselves in the Pergamon Museum. The bags and umbrellas must be depositted at the wardrobe. As I deliver my rucksack at the wardrobe lady I say "Sorry I want to take some ancient head sculptures with me". "What will you do with this old stuff?" she answers.

The Pergamon Altar is in the first hall of the museum. The figures of the altar look like a great puzzle with many absent parts. You can get famous at once if you find a new part of the puzzle anywhere in the world. The part will then given your name and been added to the puzzle. Then there is a big gate from Babylonian times (Processional Way) built by blue glazed clinkers. They are reassembled from fragments and this must be a boring piece of work. As well a floor mosaic from Roman times. Soon one get fed with cultural peciuliarities. The Islam section contains old carpets which look like drawn from a water puddle. At last I knock at one of the Pergamon sculptures to prove if they are hollow. Immediately someone shoots around the corner and with twinkling eyeglasses spits out "Don't touch anything".


Dummy of the Schloß

Framework
We enjoy the fresh air as we are out of the museum. We go to the Nikolaiviertel for a coffee. We pass a dummy of the Berliner Schloss which was demolished in 1950 by the DDR. Now they have produced 1:1 sized plastic sheets with paintings of the fassade. These are fixed to a big framework. This shall be a demonstration for the reconstruction of the Schloss. The Nikolaiviertel was rebuilt to the 750 th anniversary of Berlin. It was the entire center of the historic Berlin settlement. Now they have generated some imaginary ancient fassades built of concrete.

At the end of our Berlin tour we have a look to the legendary artist's quarter Kreuzberg. We await small shops, antique sellers and a scenic atmosphere. We ask a young man, where we could find this all. He doesn't understand. "Watch your pockets" he says. A young girl comes up to help us. We should walk straight down the street, there will be lots of shops, pubs and things like that. OK, the shops are mostly Turkish greengroceries. The pubs are gloomy and some individuals hang around. We better go back and are somewhat disappointed.

Thursday, 8.7.

At this day we will visit Potsdam. We take the bikes with us which is no problem in the S-Bahn. In Potsdam we hit the B1 - this long road across Germany - again. But then we dive into the big park of Sancoussi - cycling not allowed. But we don't care and no one else does. The Neues Palais is recently renovated. At each entrance as there are theatre, staircase hall or toilet they are charging for entrance fee. We enter the cafe without a fee. Facing mirrors, marble walls and old paintings we sip our coffee.


Neues Palais
We cycle to Schloss Charlottenhof which once again is built by the architect Schinkel. A visitation is not possible due to the beginning lunch hour. The next station are the Römische Bäder. We detect a sculpture of a stealer (Butt) at the lower end of a gutter. One of the Prussian regents had the nickname "Butt". As I take a photo of this complex I watch a deer jumping away.


Stealer
Then there is the Chinesische Teehaus decorated by much gold. May be it is not quite the style as the rest of the arrangements. And those are Orangerie with the famous windmill (there is an anecdote of Federic the Great and the owner of a mill...). At last one must admire the terrace panorama of the castle. Behind a shelter from the cold they cultivate figs. Heidi is looking for scions (Ableger) again. To get up to the top of the terraces we have to lift the bikes and climb up. This is why I can tell you the number of the terraces exactly: there are 6!


Windmill

Sanssouci

Römische Bäder

Chinesisches Teehaus
At the entrance control of the palace there is a long queue. The next guided tour would be possible at 4 am. We had to wait 3 hours then, so we better ride to the center of Potsdam. On the pedestrian road Brandenburger Straße we hit the Holländer Viertel (Dutch Quarter).

Holländer-Viertel
This settlement was built for the Dutch immigrants to prevent them from homesickness. In spite of that meanwhile no Dutch lives there yet. But the typical pediments built of brickstone are still there. Thereafter we come to the Russisches Viertel (Russian colony). Here we have wooden houses in Russian style in an park area. We resign to climb up to the Russian chapel and end in a garden colony. We ask a man to explain the route to the Palace Cecilienhof. "I cannot say, I only know how to get here" he says, a globetrotter perhaps? Another person informs us and soon we stand in front of this memorable place. Here was the Potsdamer Conference in 1945 when they fractionized the German Empire. We pay DM 3.- for a guidance. There are just three rooms to be seen: a hall with portraits of Stalin, Churchill and Roosevelt, the conference room with a big round table and then the White Salon with a view to the Heiliger See.


Cecilienhof
After a couple of minutes the guidance is over and we ask ourselves, if it was worth to pay DM 3.- for this. But it is easy to spend more money if you enter the hotel restaurant. This is said to be one of the most noble places of Berlin. We transcend a barrier rope to the terrace of the restaurant, sit down and read the menu card. We order the cheapest meal and this matjes herring for DM 18.-. "No drinks please". And then we wait for half an hour until the matjes is served. We pay without a tip.

We look at the pretty park formed by the landscape garden designer Peter Josef Linne. He even has generated some hills for the cyclist. We then pass the famous Glienicker Brücke. This was the place where they changed the agents during the cold war period.

On the rest of the way back to a S-Bahn station we nearly get lost. But finally we are back at our friends, put on the baggage and say farewell. More than one week we have stayed between Magdeburg and Berlin, the way back lasts some hours only.

Addendum

Every reader of our story about Mecklenburg/Brandenburg will have seen, that there are a lot of somewhat funny names in these regions. I was very delighted to find the verse of a poem named "Havelland" by the poet Theodor Fontane in reference to this fact (translation not possible):

Und an dieses Teppichs blühendem Saum
all die lachenden Dörfer, ich zähle sie kaum;
Linow, Lindow,
Rhinow, Glindow,
Beetz und Gatow,
Dreetz und Flatow,
Bamme, Damme, Kriele, Krielow,
Petzow, Retzow, Ferch am Schwielow,
Zachow, Wachow, und Groß Behnitz,
Marquardt-Uetz an Wublitz Schlänitz,
Senzke, Lentzke und Marzahne,
Lietzow, Tietzow und Reckahne,
und zum Schluß in dem leuchtenden Kranz:
Ketzin, Ketzühr und Vehlefanz.



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