When we remember last Monday: there was the welcome session of the touristic service. The main information was, that the gorge of the Samaria (with 18 km the longest gorge in Europe) is still under water and unpassable. And the other information was: at Thursday there is the market date at Rhetimnon. This town can be reached by bus within plus 1 hour from Plakias. Today a large group of passengers waits grumbling - the bus is 30 minutes too late. But we have holidays, so don't care. In spit of the crowds we get a fine place though not in the front row.

The conductor is a fat man with sprung up eyes. We are happy, that the driver is not in the state of the conductor - as it smells. A group of Suisse tourists has entered the bus. We don't understand a single word of their slang named "Schwyzerdütsch". In the next village Levkoyia some of them get off. And now they say good bye and embrace and kiss as if they will meet never in their life. The bus continues to the monastery of Preveli. This is high above the valley and there is a beautiful view to the gorge of Kourtaliotis and Frati. From the parking site we get a first impression of this famous spot. While the Suisse people say farewell the busdriver grumbles for they block all activities.

The bus then rides to the north. After the gorge of Kourtaliotis there is the next stop, where one can change to another bus to Spili or Agia Galini at the south. While the next Suisse people get off the busdriver nearly slams the doorwings on the kissing mouths.Soon Rhytimnon with the mighty Venetian fortress comes in sight. The trip ends directly at the market place. Another passenger asks for the busstation to return and we listen carefully and are informed then as well.

Today we must look for a pharmacy to buy some stuff to cure smaller indispositions. We find out and cannot explain that in this town there are innumerable shops signed by a green cross and named Pharmakia. We buy one cream for the skin and another for the gingival and both work well. Then we look for a bank to get money, let us choose the Bank of Greece. They don't accept cheque cards but I have enough Deutsche Mark yet to change. Now we are free to inspect the market scene. But this is disappointing, we have scen better places. I am looking for new sandals but at the market there is only trash.

Rethimnon: Hrbour

Venetian Balconies

In the bus there are some people who look like "Aussteiger". We remember the period of the Hippie scene during the 70s. Crete was a favourite retreat at that times, may be there are some relicts yet. Those people look like former students who have decided to be gypsies further on. Their small children sleep in the sun. They all get off at Levkoya.

In the afternoon we settle at our beach place again. My exploration tour today leads up the slope at the left of the big wall. This is a very thistly matter and not worth the strain. We hit on a path where one can push up a baby carriage from below. From there there is a winded path up the slope until some emitter masts. There you can see the sea at the other side of the headland. I jump back again to my suntanned wife wearing not sandals but gym shoes now - I got wise.

At the beach an indivuduum, type Latin Lover, strolls around, suited by a T-shirt only which is wrapped around his head. He looks thoughtfully at the sea, then he gets a gupl from the water and gurgles. To our questionable delight he turns towards us and says "This area is out of complex". I ask "What does this mean?". And he: "You can swimm free". We continue to look at our crossword-puzzle until the guy toddles off. We have learned, that this area is one of the few nudist regions at Crete.

Friday: The Hottest Day in Europe

From the heading you can suppose that there will be no larger undertaking today. We have a short walk after breakfast but then meet at the beach for a "Free Swim". Meanwhile I read in the brochures again and find a tour: "Kakomouri Headland Serious Path". We just lean our back to the Kakamouri mountain. So if you know me you won't be surprised that I soon put my gym shoes on (and some more pieces of clothes) and start to run against the mountain. The path shall begin at the tunnel and lead up to some clay terraces at the left. So far so good. Therafter the terrain gets impassable and steep, no continuation available. Up above there seems to be a sloped band with a path which can be reached by a circumvention. But there are some ravens. Or big crows. They get more and more excited the nearer I approach. Finally they start to fly the first attacks, may be they have a nest up there. I am no babarian and retire. I climb up to the known emitter masts. Then we reach the tarmack road from the Damnoni Bay to the Kalypso Hotel. This is to be seen from above and a demolition of the landscape. They even built tennis courts amidst of the cliffs. The road leads to a switchback near the cap. The cliffs are extremely bizarre, the surface of the stones is sharp like knifes. If someone would fall on his bare knee or other parts of his body this would be fatal.

Point of Return

I dare to lumber along a tiny path until a narrow rock gate where I decide to return. The continuation of the path is insecure. As I climb down at the other side I see someone sitting in the botany, just there where the ravens have been. And another group of mountaineers climbs high above at the jagged ridge of the mountain. As long as I walk alone I am always very cautious, a wounded ankle or so could be desastrous already.

The rest of the day is pure relaxing. For the weather forecast is promising I purchase a hired bike for tomorrow. It is a fine bike with suspension fork but a somewhat dangling front wheel.

In the evening we see a strange cat-sized animal out of our balcony. There is a long bushy and tail nothing more to seen in the dark. But wait some time...

The other story is that of the cat. She once came up with a kitten in her mouth. Sometime later the cat came along at our balcony door and jumped into the beds. We got some time until we got rid of her. Now we argue, that the cat is looking for her kitten but the strange animal has eaten it.