Halberstadt - Quedlinburg - Sangerhausen, 100 km,
13.9.
The circuit sections until now clinch the Harz mountain like
tongs and
the last missing section is from Thale to Wippra. I know these regions
from earlier tours at the river Selke and Wipper.
But let
us have a plan: for a last attempt we could deposit the car at Halberstadt,
start the tour via Quedlinburg, Thale
and Wippra until
Sangerhausen
and return from there by train.
Once planned the next opportunity will be used for execution.
The weather
forecast is not so good, cold and showers now and then. But for it is
the
13 th may be this is a fortunate day. During the drive to Halberstadt
it
starts raining and when I arrive a steady rain falls down. We have been
some times at this town but have never seen the few remaining older
parts.
The town was destroyed in the war, but most of the relicts decayed
during
the DDR-aera when the more "attractive" concrete Plattenbauten
were
favoured by the authorities and inhabitants as well. I come around a
corner
and behind the cathedral I find myself in the center of the old part of
the town. Some time later I park the car, some rotten houses around,
let
us hope that they return to life one day.
Gläserner Mönch
|
I put my raincoat on, fix the handlebar bag and the rucksack and then
can start into the rainy morning. I have no city map so must switch on
my sense of direction. The brochure about the Harz circuit describes a
side tour to Halberstadt, I will try to find this route. And I really
find
it along the Westerhäuser Strasse near the Spiegelsberge.
It is a fine feeling to leave a town on the right route. I cycle in a
damp
and misty forest. As I reach the southern end of the wood there is a
strange
illumination: the sky is dark from the rain but at the west there is a
bright band at the horizon. And in consequence the rain soon stops.
At the border of the wood I find a sign: Gläserner
Mönch,
0.5 km. I am curious about the backgrond of this hint. The
secret is
a rotten former excursion restaurant with a dance platform, terraces
and
bungalows, but all in ruins. The skeleton of a Trabbi in the garden
contains
a big plant of the Herakleum (Herakleum mantegazzianum). This all has
seen
better times, I think. Nearby there is the memorial place Zwieberge,
there had been a concentration camp of the Nazis. The "Gläserner Mönch"
is a rock with a nice outlook.
I continue to Langenstein, an idyllic little
hamlet. There is
a sign of the remains of a fortification and formerly inhabited caves.
The fortification is on the top of a hill and unreachable by bike. But
the caves are nearby and I leave the bike behind. I have seen something
about these caves in the television. There is a real lane as a plain
channel
in the soft sandstone. Aside are the cavities, some are connected and
combined
to several rooms. It is said that the last inhabitants were here at
1916.
At one of those caves there is an entrance door and a house number. The
age
of these artificial caves is unknown. May be the "normal" houses around
which are glued to the slopes have secret underground rooms too. Would
be well suited for a party room or vine cellar. At some gardens one can
see cavities with garden furniture, grill and sun umbrellar.
Thereafter one has to stay to a creek and meadows and soon
reaches the
next hamlet Börnecke. This looks somewhat rural
"behind the
mountains". At Westerhausen I pass the Königsstein,
which is
a group of jagged rocks and reach the main road B6. Then it's a stone
throw
to
Quedlinburg, another world heritage site.
As usual we find ourselves
at the market place. Today at Saturday it is market time. Moreover
there
are various tourist groups, noticeable at their bent necks and a
reclaiming
person. I buy a sausage (Schinkenkrakauer) and chewing I watch the
stone
statue named Roland at the corner of the city hall.
Around the market
place are pretty half timbered houses. There was done much work during
the last years to rebuild or restaurate the buildings, which were in
decay
from the DDR-period. Most famous is the castle hill and the Domschatz,
but today there is no time for this. Eventually I look for the railway
station to get out of the town.
Behind the rails there is the path to the ruins of the Gersdorfer
Burg.
I pass the Seweckenberge, a nature reservate with
neglected
grassland (Magerrasen). The rest of the Gersdorfer Burg is the tower
only,
nearby is a manor. I crawl in the bushes around the tower in a savaged
park. There is an entrance and the door is broken. Behind the broken
door
however there is a locked grid of steel and let us be sure that this is
the better thing for the ruins are rather fragile. So I turn to the
next
sandwich. We approach the Harz again, the sun is shining now. There is
another geological phenomenon: a sharp ridge looks like a tilted layer
of rock, a nature reservate too. During the steady climb the outlook
gets
better and soon we see the fine skyline of Quedlinburg and Halberstadt
(The towers of Halberstadt are known to salutate over long distances).
We pass a shooting stand at the left, one can hear that they
are busy
to fire their guns. Nearby there is a motocross race area. But this is
deserted today.
Ballenstedt
|
We reach Ballenstedt and the park of the castle.
And I find myself at the "wrong" side - the backside - of the castle.
This
is somewhat rotten, but they are at work and the frontside shines in a
bright yellow. There is a nice view to the streets of the town but I
fail
to find the witch-sign here. I find the road to Meisdorf
and this
is the correct path as well. There is a brand new golf course, 18
holes,
the bunkers are filled with sand, the greens are sowed already but the
balls do not fly yet. "Golf und Resortplatz Schlosshotel Meisdorf" is
to
be read at a sign. I dare to make a short trip into the park, there are
sites for various open air sport activities like chess, tennis, squash,
boccia etc. There is a training site for golfers as well where they
exercise
for the big "hole in one". At a high fence you can read: "Beware of the
flying balls!". As a poor cyclist I do not feel convenient here and
after
a short round I run out to the freedom again.
We head on towards the ruin of the monastery Konradsburg.
This
is located on a hill and I resign to visit the picturesque site. I look
for a shortcut to avoid some kilometres of the circuit path. I find the
way via the tiny village Burggrund but miss to see
the church at
Endorf
and a peculiar windmill somewhere. Now we come to Neuplatendorf
and have to climb again. There is a wide view to the foothills of the
easter
Harz. Near the horizon we see the cone shaped heap of Sangerhausen
already, our destination today. The next villages are Wiesenrode
and Ulzingerode and there are nice churches.
Just ahead there is
a strange building, looks like an ugly apartment building on a hill.
But
at last it is the ruin of the fortification Arnstein.
The next section is very nice along the valley of the creek Eine.
At Alterode I hit on a festival and I have to push
my bike just
across the fairground. The people look at me as if I were an alien.
Soon
I leave it all behind, leave the road too and trust on an adventurous
path
in the valley. Now and then one has to cross a meadow or pass a fallen
trunk. While I climb out the end of the valley there is time to
calculate
about the rest of the day. If I am fast enough I could reach the train
from Sangerhausen to Halberstadt, otherwise will have to wait another
two
hours. We finally reach the National Road B242, which is named "Harzhochstrasse".
There is a road-restaurant, and this is named "Rammelburg-Blick".
And in fact, beneath there is the castle Rammelburg.
We have a height
of 320 m now and I rush down, passing the castle without a stop for I
will
not disturb my arrival-calculation. But from the valley of the Wipper
one
has to climb out with some sweat. Meanwhile we have a fine sunshine
and the route between the meadows is nice. At the famous Kohlenstrasse
and a height of 350 m I have really completed the Harz-circuit.
Moreover
this is the last summit of the entire tour, and so the descent to
Sangerhausen
is a special pleasure. At last I have 45 minutes for the last 5 km and
I think you trust in me that I reach the train in time. At 4.30 pm we
leave
at Sangerhausen and are back in Halberstadt at 6 pm.
|
Halberstadt
|
That's it, let's have a summary, which is to be read out of
the previous
text as well:
Path-Quality |
Many paths are gravel and asphalt is an exception aside
from some roads.
The path is not suited for large distance tours with heavy load. |
Uphills |
Mountains are not plane areas and the foreland is not
plane either.
But if one likes a fine outlook he has to climb on a hill. And
thereafter
the downhill-kick will be the reward. |
Gastronomy |
The Harz mountains are a highly developped touristic
region. Therefore
the variety of restaurants, pensions and hotels is large. For I went
for
my own and never needed an accommodation there is nothing said about
this
aspect in this report. |
Sightseeing |
At the northern part of the trail there are two
world heritage
sites. And one can touch the "Strasse der Romanik".
The southern
part has an interesting karst-geology. The landscape is more beautiful
in the eastern part. |
Public Transport |
All larger towns are connected to the railway net. So
it is no problem
to start at a certain point and return to it by train. |
Conclusion |
You will learn a lot. I know the Harz since more than
25 years, but
had to learn to cycle predominantly in unknown areas. |
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